Field Peas 

It started at Cochon in New Orleans. We had a to-die-for golden rice and field beans for lunch.

When I got home, I looked for “golden rice” on the internet. I wasn’t really sure what it was.  I also am not sure I ended up with the same “golden rice” as they use at Cochon. What I did end up with was some amazing rice, beans, and recipes through Anson Mills in South Carolina.

For New Years, I am cooking Sea Isle Red beans with corn bread.  I am using a combo of recipes from Anson Mills and a NY Times article. It starts with soaking the heritage Sea Isle red beans and cooking up a smoky stock. The recipe is courtesy of Anson Mills.

Smoky Ham and Chicken Stock

The sensation of smoke in a broth—just beyond detection—is iconic in Southern cooking. This recipe can easily be doubled.

For this recipe, you will need a heavy-bottomed stockpot, a chinois, and a large heatproof mixing bowl.

  • 1 pound smoked pork bones
  • 1 pound chicken wings or necks 
and backs
  • 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and chopped
  • 2 small carrots, peeled and chopped
  • 2 medium ribs celery, chopped
  • 6 fresh thyme sprigs or 2 teaspoons dried thyme
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
  • 1 Turkish bay leaf
  • 6 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs
  • 2 quarts spring or filtered water

Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed 4- or 5-quart saucepan or stockpot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer gently until the stock is rich in flavor, about 3 hours, adjusting the burner as needed.

Strain the stock through a chinois into a large heatproof mixing bowl. You should have about 1 quart. (If you have less, add water to equal 1 quart; if you have more, return the stock to the pot and simmer until it is reduced to 1 quart.) Pick the meat from the ham bones and reserve it, if desired. Discard the bones and vegetables. Let the stock cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until the fat congeals on the surface, at least 3 hours, or up to 2 days. Before using, remove and discard the congealed fat from the surface of the stock with a spoon.

Cooking the Peas

  • 7 ounces (1 cup) Anson Mills Sea Island Red Peas, covered with water, soaked overnight in the refrigerator, and then drained
  • ½ yellow onion, peeled, cut through root end, and layers left intact
  • ½ carrot, peeled
  • 2 small inner celery ribs, leaves attached
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 small Turkish bay leaf
  • ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
  •  Fine sea salt
  1.  Anson Mills suggests leaving the vegetables whole and fishing them out before serving. I dice them up and leave them in the pot of beans.
  2. Bring the stock to a simmer over medium-high heat in heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan. Stir in the soaked and drained peas, the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and bay leaf. Return the liquid to a simmer, and then reduce the heat to low. Cover the pan partially and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the peas are tender, 1 to 1¼ hours.
  3.  Season with the red pepper flakes and salt to taste.
  4. Anson Mills suggests pureeing or mashing 1/4 cup of the cooked beans. I skip this step. Though I do serve it over buttered golden rice (which turns out to be a heritage rice that you can get from Anson Mills.)

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